WANDERER

I hardly thought it was going to be fun. It was something I had always said I could not quite see myself doing. Who would want to travel alone. Even during the world tour, I marvelled at those who backpacked solo. I wondered with whom you would share the emotions, the joys of seeing new things, the hassle of moving from one place to the next.

On Thursday I dropped Cris off at Colle Val d Elsa, somewhere near Pisa. I like leaving Cortona in the early hours. There is no one around between five and six and the town seems to be trapped still in the middle ages. Breakfast with the lorry drivers at the only open café brought me back to earth. By 8.30 I had exited the false sense of security and was on my own. Up the hills and down to Volterra. This area is why people dream of Tuscany. The hills and the different cultivations are part of the jewels of Italy. Hair-pin bends with views over the towers of San Gimignano, steep walks that take you to the hidden joys of medieval towns. Volterra was waking up by 9. People were out having breakfast and going to work, but few were playing tourists. I had the churches all to myself and my squeaky trainers. From there I turned back to Colle Val d Elsa and headed off towards l Abbazia di San Galgano, the church with no roof and the chapel where the knight planted his sword in a stone. Magical countryside and an even more enchanting valley where San Galgano stands proudly. The Germans and Dutch were out, but not quite in force, so I had my peace and quiet time anyway and managed to travel to another age.

The road from Roccastrada to Grosseto was mostly in the forest with the occasional stone village perched high up on the hills. Plenty of areas to explore and walk through around here.

I got Cristian back in Venturina after having found that its castle was private.

This will remain one of the great days of living in this part of the world and having the freedom to wander when the rest of the world has its head behind a computer – or behind a cow’s bum, as was Cristian’s case…


San Galgano should be approached on horseback!


Entering from the side of San Galgano.


The towers of San Gimignano in the distance.


Where a very strong knight dug his sword deep in a rock!